Blue, So Lonesome For You.
How to Blue Lagoon on your first trip to Iceland
The Blue Lagoon is undoubtedly one of Iceland’s most iconic and popular tourist attractions. Ask locals their thoughts, however, and you may receive an array of opinions varying from “you should try it at least once!” to “avoid it at all costs!”.
As with most things, I chose to try it at least once.
The Lagoon is not a natural wonder. Nor is it a naturally occurring geothermal hot spring, like many of the other hot springs you may be able to visit during your time in the Land of Ice & Fire. This bathing resort is a byproduct of the Svartsengi Power Station, which pulls the water from deep within the earth and utilizes it for electricity and heating, then discards it. Yep…. You’re essentially bathing in industrial waste runoff … but super mineral-rich runoff... so, everyone is into it.
The geothermal seawater, which is renewed approximately every two days, is extremely rich in silica, which gives it that milky blue color and chalky texture, and sulfur, which gives it (and all water in Iceland) that very distinct rotting-egg-in-a-gym-shoe smell. (Don’t be scared, tap water in Iceland is perfectly safe, even healthy, to drink and you won’t smell like that after your shower.) Because of the algae and mineral content, the water of the Blue Lagoon is said to be helpful for skin ailments and since it averages a toasty 98-102F, it’s cozy to lounge in. Many people don’t even know that the lagoon literally sits in the shadow of the power plant, perhaps also because they don’t explore the grounds, which provide a better view, but once you know it is just so very apparent.
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| That's the plant kicking up steam in the Center. |
Lying in a lava field 50 minutes from Reykjavik and 20 from Keflavik Airport, DO try to plan to incorporate this visit into an airport transfer. There are pros and cons to either, but preferably your arrival. What better welcome than to touch down and bathe on the face of a foreign planet! This way you can get it checked off the list, it is an easy 20 minutes from the airport, you don’t have to make the 45 minute journey out and back to Reykjavik, spend the extra money on a bus transfer from BSI (Reykjavik’s main bus terminal), and you can soak away your travel day! Plus, who wants to get on a plane with a wet head! (There are hair dryers, but bathing suits and towels might be a different story.) They have a luggage storage facility in the parking lot and soon, there will be an expansion of a hotel and resort! There is already a restaurant and bar on site and a swim-up bar with snacks and cocktails in the lagoon. (Did I just crush your mental image of “lagoon”?)
When buying your tickets – ahead of time online because they have a capacity and absolutely book out in advance – be wary of additional packages and upsells. Every tour company in Iceland has a Blue Lagoon package; they also have several of their own packages internally. Find the package that best suits your needs, and includes any other sights you really want and have time to do. There are packages that include transport from Reykjavik as well as Keflavik, should you need it. Research these but then go straight to the source and compare with purchasing from the BL site directly, I often find there is better availability, more flexible times, and fewer unnecessary add-ons. Conversely, you can also try pairing pieces of your trip together from multiple sites depending on what works best for you. Once entry and transport are sorted, skip the extra masks and drinks, take home peels, hunks of lava, shower shoes, birthstone anklets, or whatever gunk they are slinging at the gift shop.
You do not need mud to take home.
Okay, now listen. When you book your ticket they are going to give you an hour-long entry window. They are serious. And as I’ve said, this place is not easy to get to, so lemme tell you what you’re gonna do. Get the bus from BSI (or straight from the airport if you went that route) for the previous hours’ entry. IE: If your ticket is for entry between 7-8pm, take the 5:15 bus from BSI. They run every hour and they sell round trip tickets. That puts you arriving at the lagoon at 6 which is perfect because you have just enough time to explore the AMAZING grounds, silica lakes and lava fields, take some photos without a bunch of half-naked tourists and imminent threat of dropping your camera/phone into a pool of cloudy magic ooze, before heading in to relax for your soak. This is all seasonal and weather dependent, of course. You can check out the shop and restaurant in this time, and get in line if there is one (because at the top of the hour, there will be), stash your luggage, and if you’re lucky, a kind desk agent might let you in early!
This brings me to another accident-become-tip. Visit the Blue Lagoon at Night. I booked my ticket for an evening entry because it was literally the last space available for the only day I was free. I followed my above itinerary, caught the sunset in the lava fields, and soaked under the stars. It was magnificent. The brisk chill of the Icelandic winds made sinking into the silky, steamy waters all the more comforting. It wasn’t too crowded. I didn’t get sunburn off the reflection of the white water. And by closing, I had plenty of time in the lagoon.
When you check in at the front desk they will give you a wristband that will function as your wallet and locker key. Don’t lose it. Head into the locker room, grab an open locker, stash your belongings and get changed. Leave any jewelry or anything that might get lost or damaged by the water behind for safe keeping. As soon as you close the locker, you’ll have a few seconds to swipe your watch in order to link and lock it, so you are able to open it again with the wristband. The locker rooms are crowded and modesty-free, no need to be nervous. There are attendants to ask for assistance if you need help. Being the savvy traveler I know you are, you packed a lightweight, quick-drying towel, (yay, you!) grab it and head to the showers and rinse your body and swimsuit. Separately. The Blue Lagoon is a self-regulating ecosystem. As such, it is not chemically treated and this aids their efforts in helping to keep everything as clean and hygienic as possible.
LADIES! And Gents, too. This is perhaps my most very importantest Blue Lagoon hack. Listen up. Because of the mineral makeup, the water of the Blue Lagoon will wreak havoc on your hair. I’m talking brillo-pad, finger in a socket, that’s why they sell swim caps, forget about combing for a week, don’t say I didn’t warn you, no good very bad hair day. They provide shampoo and conditioner in the showers but recommend keeping your hair out of the water altogether. I read about this beforehand and went in strong. It’s real, HEAR ME.
Here’s what you do: Instead of shampooing and conditioning like normal, or even leaving a layer of conditioner in as some recommended, I left my hair DRY and slathered on conditioner like a mask. This way, the hair follicles are never opened to absorbing any water and there is an extra barrier of moisture and protection at work from the jump. Start at the ends and don’t be shy. Pay extra attention to the hairline, behind the ears, and the base of the skull where the water will lap at your neck. This is where I could really feel it getting crunchy so I went back inside and reapplied conditioner halfway through. A headband may have helped keep the conditioner in and the water out, or you can always bring a bathing bonnet of your own! Pull all your hair up and away from the water and cover with conditioner again before heading out to the lagoon. If your hair starts to feel chalky or dry, or you got it wet in the waterfall or while swimming, come in and rinse, reapply, and put back up as tightly as possible. At the end of your visit, shampoo and condition thoroughly and then leave on a dose of conditioner for good measure before drying. My hair not only suffered no long-term damage from the lagoon but also actually felt like it had a super soft conditioning treatment!
This concept also goes for the rest of your body. While the water is said to be great for your skin, don’t forget that it is obviously hot and incredibly salty! It is very easy to become dehydrated very quickly without knowing it. Skip the sodas and alcoholic beverages at the swim up bar and stick to the “pure Icelandic spring water” constantly trickling from a fountain under a bridge in the middle of the lagoon. It is ice cold and incredibly refreshing! You’ll want to keep drinking water after your visit to flush out any toxins your system may have processed during your soak.
Speaking of toxins! Banish more of them by trying all the masks and scrubs that are offered in the lagoon. The Silica mask is offered to everyone and can be scooped from buckets at the mask bar and is the fine, chalky silt that turns the water, and all who wear it, white. It feels a little like gelatinous sand that you smear over your face in globs. There’s an algae mask that’s green and clarifying and offered with another more expensive level of entry, or purchased additionally, or to those who walk up with a nice British man who insists that they take the sample first… and then there is also a lovely scrub mistress wandering around the lagoon in a bathing bonnet giving out samples of a body scrub. If you try all three you’ll have done a full spa experience! Balance your masks with time in the caves and saunas. There are multiple saunas to find and the domed entry cave has an audio guide, which explains the history of the Blue Lagoon. Maximize your time by exploring all the nooks and crannies of the resort. Float to the waterfall, the bridges, to the beach all the way in the back with the closest view you’ll find of the power plant. The temperature also varies throughout so enjoy finding various hot spots and lounging at your favorite.
Don’t carve your name into anything. Don’t yell across the Lagoon. Don’t treat it like a waterpark or a personal Jacuzzi. K? Cool.
When you’ve had your fill or they kick you out, whichever comes first, leave plenty of time to shower off, (condition and moisturize!), and dry before heading back out into the Icelandic night, or Eternal day... depending on the season. Be sure to rinse bathing suits and anything that was in the water thoroughly! There are hair dryers and plastic bags for any damp items. You can turn rented towels and wristbands in at the front desk on your way out before you exit through the gift shop and catch whatever transportation you have pre-arranged into Reykjavik.
NO, you do NOT need mud to take home.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
How did I end up in Iceland, you say? More to come.
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